written November 1st, 2012 in China
... and has found my dear husband here in Beijing. It is Day 4 of our planned 28 days in China and sadly Michael sleeps. We are missing Day 3 of a Beijing Tour which, quite frankly, could save us hundreds of Yuan. The Chinese are forceful sales people as our empty wallets will testify.
Before even beginning our planned tours around Beijing we had a day on our own to find things to buy. We are learning to fight for the final price. Neither one of us like doing this but, if we want to get out of China with money for our old'er' age we're learning fast ... first to say "NO" and then to fight for what we really want.
Day 1 of the Beijing tour took us to Tiananmen Square, the largest square in the world that will hold one million people. Don't ask if there is elbow room when packed like that, I do not know. Tommy Tourguide just laughed when I asked. Tommy has been the greatest guy with us. So kind and thoughtful. When I told him he must tell his mother, "You have a done a good job raising me, I've turned out to be a nice boy", Tommy simply laughed. I guessed Tommy's age to be 27 and was right.
Next from Tiananmen Square we walked into The Forbidden City where the number 9 (being the highest number before repetition) is significant in showing the power of The Emperor. Doors to and from The Forbidden City are decorated with 9 x 9 rows of brass bolts. The rooms within the city number 9,999.
The foot massage at a Chinese Medicine place was fantastic. So was the amount I was to pay to protect my "fatty liver" and heart. $210 for three months of treatment and I would have felt like a new man. Not wanting a new man, I managed to say "no, thank you" but I must say I loved the face and demeanor of the most honoured professor who, "because it is your lucky day" diagnosed my problems. I did ask about Restless Leg Syndrome but it seemed they really didn't know what I was talking about. That might lead one to believe the Chinese do not suffer this affliction as I, that finds me pacing the floor nightly just to stop the creepy feeling in my legs. Hmm, this could mean Chinese Medicine works OR perhaps it's all the squatting on toilets that works out the RLS.
Speaking of toilets ... come on, you knew I would ... I was very proud to learn I could still squat until I figured out I could not get up. It was quite the scene on the floor of the cubicle while my mother's words to me as a young child in a public washroom rang in my ears. "Marlene, for Heaven's sake, DON'T TOUCH ANYTHING". There I was touching everything in a effort to get up. I'll spare the detail, just know I got out of there and quit the tour early to get home to a shower and a complete change of clothing.
I might have continued the tour but the vehicle on that first day had me struggling (with the help of three kind men, one of which almost pulled my arm right out of its socket) to get in and out of the side door of a van with no stepping stool. After the Silk Factory (where yes we did buy the silk quilt and pillows) Tommy found a taxi for me and I gratefully returned to the satisfaction of a very long 'wee' wash.
Apparently Tommy and our tour driver had to threaten the taxi driver with the loss of his job if he did NOT take me to my hotel which he was not too happy to do. It took him away from his normal route in rush hour. He was quite the crabby cabby and even yelled at the doorman at our hotel when he came to open the door for me. It's amazing how much one can figure out by body language, not to mention agressive driving, about someone's mood.
Day 2 of our Beijing Tour was only yesterday with a better vehicle, "Look", said Tommy so proudly, "steps for you". It was a much easier day especially now that Tommy was tipped about my toilet preferences and the lunch at the Jade Factory was delightful. No, we did not buy any jade ... Whew!
The Great Wall was next but with winds too strong to allow the cable-car ride to the scenic view. Others walked the wall that I knew I could not do. I was too afraid of re-injuring my sprained ankle which was aggravated just prior to leaving Canada. Luckily, I can walk great distances without pain, just don't ask me to climb a mountain. The younger folks on the tour, Michael included, all said it was a terrific challenge. "People would just simply stop and sit down", my husband reported. Twice in China without a walk on the Great Wall. Somehow I don't believe I'll be trying for the old 'three strikes and you're out' rule.
I actually spent my time walking back to the wonderful van with the side steps and listened to the music on my phone. I always start with a song our son, Ben wrote, and sings ... 'Sad to See'. My music also kept me company on the way back to Beijing's unbelievable traffic. All the Great Wall walkers slept soundly.
We ended day 2 with a tea ceremony at Dr. Tea's. We sampled four kinds of tea. Three of the four I absolutely loved. Okay! They got me. It's actually a wonderful set-up to sell you tea and it's accompanying doo-dads. I think we paid enough to bring home "all the tea in China". Maybe it was simply that we wanted Little Pee Boy. A ceramic little guy who, if you pour water on him that is hot enough, he'll pee a great distance. I think we thought about how much our grandson, Kaenoa, would laugh the next time we make tea for him.
Today, as Michael recovers, we miss the Olympic Sites which we have seen on the way to and from The Great Wall and, oh, yes, the string of pearls I've always wanted from the, as the brochure says, "free pearl market". There would have been nothing "free" about those pearls.
Tomorrow (Friday) we leave the hotel at 5 a.m. for our early-morning flight to Kunming where a friend there says, "There are no American toilets" in public places. Stay tuned (or not) for more.
SOME OBSERVATIONS: I cannot compare my experience of almost twenty years ago in the north of China for three months to now, but, of course, I'll try. The biggest change is sugar. I did not see one sweet or candy on my last visit. Unfortunately candies have come to China. There are numerous candy shops within walking distance of our hotel. Although you still don't see many overweight adults, I've noticed many chunky Chinese children. It makes me sad. It's too bad this addictive poison (from the lips and hips of one who knows) has found its way here. Hopefully Chinese Medicine can fight this terrible trend.
There wasn't much to spend one's money on in the north. Not so here in Beijing. Last night we bought another suitcase ... need I say more?
Traffic and pollution very terrible in Beijing. Our eyes feel sticky all the time.
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